This weekend, I planted seeds. Not outside — it’s still too cold for that. Frost is still part of the forecast. Instead, I planted them indoors, tucked carefully into egg cartons on my kitchen counter.
There’s something about starting seeds that feels hopeful and slightly risky at the same time. You’re planting something you can’t see yet and trusting that it will grow. That feeling isn’t new.
The Year My Basil Didn’t Survive
When my boys were three and four, I tried growing basil from seed for the first time. I was completely invested. I planted the seeds indoors. I watched for the first sprouts. I moved the cartons from shade to sun. I watered carefully. I protected them from heavy rain. When they outgrew the egg cartons, I transplanted them into small containers.
It was the first time I had ever grown anything from seed — and it was working. The seedlings were upright and healthy. I was proud of them in a way that probably only gardeners understand.
My boys were sitting on the patio playing. I ran inside to grab something. I was gone for less than a minute. When I came back out, every single seedling had been pulled out…EVERY ONE!
At the time, I was so furious. Looking back, it should have foreshadowed their lifelong love of basil. To them, it wasn’t months of careful tending — it was something green and interesting enough to explore. That year, I had to buy plants.
And I learned something important: starting from seed makes you invested early. Planning doesn’t eliminate disappointment — but it gives you a framework to try again.
Where Seed Starting Fits in the Bigger Plan
This is Part 4 of 7 in our Garden Planning Series. In Part 2: Frost Dates, Timing and Why It’s Important, we established how your average last frost date anchors your season. In Part 3: Why a Little Garden Planning Makes Everything Feel Easier, we worked through layout and crop selection.
Seed starting connects those two steps. You don’t start seeds because you’re impatient. You start seeds because you know your timing — and you’ve already decided what belongs in your garden.
When Should You Start Seeds Indoors?
Most seed packets suggest starting seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before your average last frost date.
To find your frost date:
- Visit theoldfarmersalmanac.com
- Enter your zip code
Once you know that date, count backward. That window becomes your seed-starting timeline.
Starting too early often leads to:
· Overgrown, root-bound seedlings
· Plants that outgrow their containers before outdoor conditions are ready
Starting too late shortens your growing season. Timing is one of the most important planning decisions you’ll make.
What Do You Actually Need to Start Seeds?
Seed starting doesn’t require complicated equipment, but it does require a few essentials.
Containers
Almost any small container works, including:
· Egg cartons
· Seed trays
· Yogurt or paper cups
· Biodegradable pots
The non-negotiable detail is drainage holes. Without drainage, roots sit in water and quickly rot. Egg cartons work well for germination, but seedlings will need to be transplanted once roots fill the space.
Growing Medium
Garden soil feels logical, but it’s rarely ideal for seed starting. It compacts in small containers and can introduce fungal disease.
Instead, choose a seed-starting mix labeled:
· Seed Starting Mix
· Organic Seed Starting Mix
· Germination Mix
These mixes typically contain peat moss or coco coir for moisture retention and perlite or vermiculite for drainage.
Before planting, moisten the mix until it feels like a wrung-out sponge — damp but not dripping. When squeezed, it should hold together lightly without releasing water. That texture prevents many early failures.
How Deep Should You Plant Seeds?
A simple rule works well:
Plant seeds two to three times as deep as they are wide.
· Very small seeds → press gently onto the surface
· Larger seeds → bury slightly deeper
If you’re unsure, plant two seeds per cell. Once they sprout, thin by snipping the weaker seedling at the soil line. Avoid pulling, which can disturb roots.
Is a Sunny Window Enough for Seedlings?
Sometimes — but often not.
Early spring sunlight is weaker and shorter in duration than summer sun. Seedlings grown on windowsills frequently become “leggy,” stretching toward the light and developing thin stems.
Full-spectrum LED lights provide more consistent results.
For strong seedlings:
· Keep lights 4–6 inches above plants
· Run lights 14–16 hours per day
· Use a timer for consistency
You don’t need expensive systems. Affordable LED shop lights or full-spectrum grow bulbs can work very well when placed correctly.
What Is Bottom Watering?
Bottom watering means placing containers in a tray and adding water to the tray rather than pouring water directly onto the soil.
This method:
· Encourages deeper root growth
· Keeps the soil surface drier
· Reduces fungal problems
Let containers absorb water for 20–30 minutes, then remove excess. The soil should remain evenly moist — never saturated.
Preparing Seedlings for the Outdoors
About a week before transplanting, begin hardening off.
· Place seedlings outside in a protected area for a few hours
· Bring them in at night
· Gradually increase exposure to sun and wind over 7–10 days
This gradual transition reduces shock and improves survival.
Closing
Starting seeds isn’t about rushing the season. It’s about understanding your frost date, choosing your crops intentionally, and giving young plants the strongest possible start.
Great gardening starts with a plan.
Download our free garden planner to organize your timing, layout, and seed-starting schedule before the growing season begins.
Just 7 days in and the seeds are sprouting beautifully. My boys are now 14 and 15… and let’s just say the basil is still under protective supervision.
Up Next (Blog 5 of 7):
You’ve planned your garden. You’ve started your seeds. Now what? In our next post, we’ll cover transplanting, spacing, and how to help young plants adjust so they don’t just survive — they thrive.
Mischelle writes as The Backyard Hopeful — a home gardener who believes great gardens begin with thoughtful planning and steady learning. Through real experiences (including the occasional setback), she shares practical guidance to help gardeners grow with more intention, confidence, and resilience season after season.
